Mitrovica, Kosovo
Thanks to misinformation I linger on the border between Serb and Albanian Kosovo longer than I'd planned. My bus to Nis (in Serbia proper) leaves in one and a half hours.
On the bus from Pristina an Albanian joked that I was secret service (CIA in his view). Between amiable laughs he warned me not to cross to the Serb side of the river Iba. He seemed intrigued that I should be in Mitrovica. Maybe there are some repressed machismo urges in me seeking expression but I can't help feeling vaguely attracted to danger zones like this. Only, I really don't find it intimidating or unwelcoming at all. Of course, the Serbs are somewhat grumpy and dour in contrast to the Albanians, but generally one expects such reserve from Slavs.
According to an English UN ex-Policewoman I chatted to, I should buy myself a hat to avoid sunstroke. She also told me there are still sometimes isolated incidents of violence involving grenades, etc, but besides such media-unworthy events there's been peace here for three years since the riots in 2004. That said, tensions simmer beneath the surface. Kosovans yearn to declare an independence they consider all but in the bag, yet are restrained from doing so by an America that first wants the EU to replace the UN as chief Kosovan guarantor. The big Russian bear, which says it will support nothing that Serbia opposes (like giving up Kosovo) is also a factor. To the Americans, Kosovo, next to missile shields and Iraq/Iran, is not a priority, over which its not worth upsetting the honey monster. Well, not for now at least.
I, an Englishman, remain as puzzled as the next Albanian as to why the Serbs care as they do about Kosovo. After all, it was here they lost to the Turks in 1389 in a battle they continue to celebrate in an expression of patriotism. Isn't that like the Anglo-Saxons celebrating the Battle of Hastings? Beyond this, 90% of the population is Albanian. Have I missed something? Enlightenment requested. Obviously I now have to suppose some will think me anti-Serb or whatever. Such is the world I have grown all too acquainted with.
I enjoyed looking at the battery powered generators the Albanians use to keep the lights on. And the fact that coffee costs 50 Euro cents. It's definitely the cheapest area I've been to so far in the Balkans..and possibly the friendliest and most laid back (threat of bloodshed not withstanding), which as usual doesn't surprise me.
Not sure I've ever been to a place where you pay with one currency in one cafe (Euros in Albanian areas) and another currency just up the street (in Serb Dinars). Generally speaking the river Iba divides the communities, but there's still an Albania area on the Serb side (called the Bosnian quarter), and Serb and Albanian flags fly around the corner from each other. Despite the offical tension it was interesting to read that the communities do co-operate, for example on a recent river cleaning project. Politicians avoid mentioning such matters since polarisation and fearmongering court votes, as we know.
Two hours after being told by a German UN police officer that I was the first tourist he'd seen in eight years, I surreally ran into and drank coffee with three young students studying cultural redevelopment here at the local University. They seemed as relaxed and blase about life as they might back home.
If all goes according to plan I will not be sleeping in Nis bus station tonight when I arrive at 11pm after my 6 hour bus journey, but will find a hotel (preferably not 5 star). The pretty Serb Girl who bought my coffee reassured me I'd be ok.
Plans are to get the "Balkan Express" tomorrow to Sofia, my first train yet. Hopefully it will have a buffet car.
On the bus from Pristina an Albanian joked that I was secret service (CIA in his view). Between amiable laughs he warned me not to cross to the Serb side of the river Iba. He seemed intrigued that I should be in Mitrovica. Maybe there are some repressed machismo urges in me seeking expression but I can't help feeling vaguely attracted to danger zones like this. Only, I really don't find it intimidating or unwelcoming at all. Of course, the Serbs are somewhat grumpy and dour in contrast to the Albanians, but generally one expects such reserve from Slavs.
According to an English UN ex-Policewoman I chatted to, I should buy myself a hat to avoid sunstroke. She also told me there are still sometimes isolated incidents of violence involving grenades, etc, but besides such media-unworthy events there's been peace here for three years since the riots in 2004. That said, tensions simmer beneath the surface. Kosovans yearn to declare an independence they consider all but in the bag, yet are restrained from doing so by an America that first wants the EU to replace the UN as chief Kosovan guarantor. The big Russian bear, which says it will support nothing that Serbia opposes (like giving up Kosovo) is also a factor. To the Americans, Kosovo, next to missile shields and Iraq/Iran, is not a priority, over which its not worth upsetting the honey monster. Well, not for now at least.
I, an Englishman, remain as puzzled as the next Albanian as to why the Serbs care as they do about Kosovo. After all, it was here they lost to the Turks in 1389 in a battle they continue to celebrate in an expression of patriotism. Isn't that like the Anglo-Saxons celebrating the Battle of Hastings? Beyond this, 90% of the population is Albanian. Have I missed something? Enlightenment requested. Obviously I now have to suppose some will think me anti-Serb or whatever. Such is the world I have grown all too acquainted with.
I enjoyed looking at the battery powered generators the Albanians use to keep the lights on. And the fact that coffee costs 50 Euro cents. It's definitely the cheapest area I've been to so far in the Balkans..and possibly the friendliest and most laid back (threat of bloodshed not withstanding), which as usual doesn't surprise me.
Not sure I've ever been to a place where you pay with one currency in one cafe (Euros in Albanian areas) and another currency just up the street (in Serb Dinars). Generally speaking the river Iba divides the communities, but there's still an Albania area on the Serb side (called the Bosnian quarter), and Serb and Albanian flags fly around the corner from each other. Despite the offical tension it was interesting to read that the communities do co-operate, for example on a recent river cleaning project. Politicians avoid mentioning such matters since polarisation and fearmongering court votes, as we know.
Two hours after being told by a German UN police officer that I was the first tourist he'd seen in eight years, I surreally ran into and drank coffee with three young students studying cultural redevelopment here at the local University. They seemed as relaxed and blase about life as they might back home.
If all goes according to plan I will not be sleeping in Nis bus station tonight when I arrive at 11pm after my 6 hour bus journey, but will find a hotel (preferably not 5 star). The pretty Serb Girl who bought my coffee reassured me I'd be ok.
Plans are to get the "Balkan Express" tomorrow to Sofia, my first train yet. Hopefully it will have a buffet car.
3 comments:
i see another solution here - ask the pretty Serbian girl if you can sleep with her.
i played a first-person shooter computer game set in the ruins of Kosovo a few years ago (Rogue Spear) and now instantly regard Serbs as the enemy.
loser. I've been living fast few weeks in Pristina (I'm British also) and hosting foreigners passing through. Got friends in Mitrovica.
Stop dramatising this boring area to make yourself look big- it's probably safer here than London.
Hello Amir,
I hope you are enjoying Pristina. How are you hosting them? Sounds interesting.
I haven't been to Kosovo for over a year, so fear not, I do not need to stop dramatising it. I did this ages ago.
I think I see what you're gettting at re London, though I imagine the potential for outbreaks of serious violence would be greater in Kosovo than in London, even though in an everyday sense, and generally, I'm sure chances of getting attacked may well be lower. What do you think?
Btw, don't you have to be first playing a game before you can lose at it.
Enjoy your stay
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