Ohrid until today
Saturday July 21st Walk alone around Pirin national park, near Bansko, Bulgaria. Alone with wild horses. Climb up mountian through the river, over rocks. Listen to Dido on my descent. Walk down hill but catch a lift with 2 Brits, here unsurprisingly to buy property. Weird to see a ski slope with no snow. Swim in hotel's pool and chat to friendly son of the owner of the room I'm staying in, who gave me a card to show to my friend advertising "Cosiness in the heart of Bansko". Read from 'Lost Christianity' by Jacob Needleman, after a break of 19 years. A vivid, poignant book. My DvD of Kafka's 'The Trial' is unfuctionally scratched.
Friday July 20th Take bus and then taxi and then bus from Rila monastery to Bansko. Overwhelmed by number of Real estate offices, many of them British. Meet a Bavarian expat, the first foreigner to live in Bansko, or so he says. Read much of 'Bloodline of the Holy Grail' by Laurence Gardner, an academic yet partial and unsterile look at the 'Jesus had kids' question. My thinking: So these descendants of Jesus and his brother James: What is it makes them so special even if they do exist...is it something in the blood? Obviously I think I'd like to be such a descendent, and have a secret order looking after me, but I get the impression they're all aristos linked to dispossessed royal houses. Overall, I approve of Gardener's analysis of the forces of ecclesiastical/political oppression over the years. And interesting how he argues that people's rights were undermined not strengthened by Parliament's triumph over the King in the later 17th century. I like what he says regarding a 'Grail code'; that rulers' prime responsibilty is to their duties, not to themselves; to serve, not to be master.
Thursday July 19th Stay the night in Rila Monastery, the holiest place in Bulgaria, centre of Bulgarian cultural preservation during Ottoman rule. Very beautiful building. Meet a friendly, uncamp, gay ex music producer from London, who persuades me to drink a raika (strong spirit). We almost don't return to monastery in time for curfew.
Wednesday July 18th Feeling better than yesterday. See remaining churches and sights, but fail to get up Vitosha mountain. See Transformers at cinema...witness what I'd missed out on as a kid. Chat about Armenian history with gigi, the hostel landlord.
Tuesday July 17th Madly hot in Sofia..and dry and tiring. Watch 28 weeks later at the cinema. Need to, but cant find a swimming pool.
Friday July 20th Take bus and then taxi and then bus from Rila monastery to Bansko. Overwhelmed by number of Real estate offices, many of them British. Meet a Bavarian expat, the first foreigner to live in Bansko, or so he says. Read much of 'Bloodline of the Holy Grail' by Laurence Gardner, an academic yet partial and unsterile look at the 'Jesus had kids' question. My thinking: So these descendants of Jesus and his brother James: What is it makes them so special even if they do exist...is it something in the blood? Obviously I think I'd like to be such a descendent, and have a secret order looking after me, but I get the impression they're all aristos linked to dispossessed royal houses. Overall, I approve of Gardener's analysis of the forces of ecclesiastical/political oppression over the years. And interesting how he argues that people's rights were undermined not strengthened by Parliament's triumph over the King in the later 17th century. I like what he says regarding a 'Grail code'; that rulers' prime responsibilty is to their duties, not to themselves; to serve, not to be master.
Thursday July 19th Stay the night in Rila Monastery, the holiest place in Bulgaria, centre of Bulgarian cultural preservation during Ottoman rule. Very beautiful building. Meet a friendly, uncamp, gay ex music producer from London, who persuades me to drink a raika (strong spirit). We almost don't return to monastery in time for curfew.
Wednesday July 18th Feeling better than yesterday. See remaining churches and sights, but fail to get up Vitosha mountain. See Transformers at cinema...witness what I'd missed out on as a kid. Chat about Armenian history with gigi, the hostel landlord.
Tuesday July 17th Madly hot in Sofia..and dry and tiring. Watch 28 weeks later at the cinema. Need to, but cant find a swimming pool.
Monday July 16th Chat with very aimiable, informative Greek guy on bus from Pristina to Skopje about Greek politics and UN and other humanitarian work. Idle aroud waiting for the bus to Sofia, and stay in a hostel of a very friendly, half Armenian Bulgarian.
Sunday July 15th Long wait in Mitrovica for the bus to Nis that I get thrown off. Meet UN police men/women and students from Croatia and The Netherlands. Experience the loud defiant vibrancy of the Albanian quarter on the Serb side of the river.
Saturday July 14th See barricaded KFOR protected Serb churches in the heart of Prizren. Meet jolly Albanian on bus to Mitrovica and explore Serb side of the river.
Friday July 13th Crawl out of bed to meet Mark, expecting him to be late, which he isnt. Take boat from ex Macedonian soldier, who'd worked with the British Army in Kosovo, around the Penninsula to a tourist-free beach. Are harassed by the Manger of a beach-siding restaurant when i audaciously drink from my own water bottle as I order a beer and some food. Formerly timid waiter grows disdainful in his presence, declaring, as if this was supposed to impress me,'he's the owner'. Decide in Pristina to immediately continue onto Prizren.
(to be continued)
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